![]() As an OEM it meets all of BMW's original design, fitment, and performance requirements and is TUV approved. This is an OEM expansion tank cap manufactured by Behr - an original supplier to BMW for many cooling system components. It's a simple and inexpensive preventative maintenance step.īMW has had many different part numbers for this radiator cap over the years. Replacement of the cap is recommended every three years to ensure optimum cooling efficiency and performance. A failed cap can lower the pressure inside the system and lead to an overheating situation. ![]() This cap is not just to seal the coolant expansion tank - it regulates and maintains the pressure in the cooling system (2.0 bar). Then top up fill level in coolant expansion tank with 100 ml above max.įill coolant expansion tank with 100 ml above max.Ĭlose cap (1) until the arrow marks line up.While your BMW cooling system may be considered very reliable, it's all depending on this coolant reservoir cap. (Electric coolant pump was activated and shuts down automatically after approx. The venting procedure is started when the accelerator pedal is pressed and takes approx. ![]() Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor. Set heater to maximum temperature and turn fan down to lowest speed. Note: Do not open the coolant expansion tank cap during the venting procedure. Have a cleaning cloth ready and mop up emerging coolant. Slowly fill coolant expansion tank up to lower edge of filler neck with recommended coolant.Ĭlose vent screw (1) until bubble-free coolant emerges. Coolant problems on these cars are the worst. If you have a 335i with the N54 I can tell you that there is a plastic fitting in the front of the block that might now be compromised as it is common for those to fail with regular use. Could take 20-30 minutes, but should wait till it has warmed up to operating temperature and then add 5 minutes.Įdit: I don't know which model you have, but now that you've exposed the coolant system to crazy high pressures you might want to look through all your plastic joints. I did this and was able to put in another liter of coolant before it started to backup into the reservoir again.Īnyways, the bigger point is you should let the car idle in the driveway for awhile and confirm that it has enough coolant before driving. Although it is meant to be a pressurized system, this will help you see if the car has enough coolant, as the moment the car is warm enough to open the thermostat and turn the water pump on, it will suck down the coolant level in the reservoir dramatically. After you do the bleed, turn the car on and let it idle with the cap off in your driveway. The thread on the cap is also completely fine.ĮDIT: Perhaps I over filled the system? Even though the level was where it should be as indicated. So I've topped off the coolant and will try the bleed process again in the morning when it's much cooler. Any ideas why this would've happened? Perhaps I didn't close the cap properly?Ĭar seems fine but the low coolant light came on. I took the car out for a drive after all this and while on the road the coolant reservoir cap shot off inside the engine bay. My bleed process was turning the ignition on without starting the car, turning the temp to high for the AC, turning the AC off and leaving the fan on the lowest setting and pressing the accelerator down for 10sec. Couldn't hear any pump noises as the fan is on. I'm quite sure the bleed process worked, as the level dropped after I had done the bleed and topped the reservoir off. ![]() I watched a ton of Youtube videos beforehand to make sure that I was hopefully doing everything the right way. So today I did my first ever coolant drain, fill and bleed.
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